C.S.I. Reference Articles

Tales from the 2004 Tour de France

Today we did the Tour de Paris, which is when 11 cyclists have no idea where they are going in Paris, but they get to see the entire city. We took about 3 hours to go 20 miles and eat lunch. It was fun to see the city on the bike, but riding in Paris was interesting. We got used to Paris drivers (much better than the states), cobble stone streets (very bumpy) and trying to read French while riding. It seems like we hit every red light this city had to offer, and they offer alot. None of the roads go in a straight line. At any rate we had a great time, met some new people and got to ride the bikes before our long trip south to Grenoble to join the tour.

Yesterday we arrived at Grenoble after a long 6+ bus ride from Paris. We rode our bikes around the city to loosen up then went to bed to get prepared to start the “Tour”. Today we began our Tour journey. Todays ride would be 120K (72+ miles), with an ascent of 1800 km or about 5400 feet. We climbed out of Grenoble with a 35 km sustained climb at a 4% grade, not a bad warm up even though it rained like cats and dogs. Our first mountain stage to ride in France was incredible. From here we had a 20-25 km descent into a beautiful gorge. This area was really unbelievable and pictures would not do it justice. From there the road we were supposed to go on was closed so our original plans did not work out. Instead we changed direction and joined the Tour de France course at the 40 km mark. The weather improved and for those watching the tour, this 40k was the start of the last col or mountain (Villard de Lans). Climbing the mountain before the tour was an awesome experience. All the people that were camping out on the mountain overnight were very animated and supportive as we climbed. All we could imagine was what the riders would feel. The climb was long and steep but with the fans cheering us on (Allez, Allez), flags flying and the paintings on the street made the lung pain a little less. This was the climb that the peleton reeled Jan Ulrich back in. After the climb we went down a 5 km descent which was amazing. In some parts the road was only 12 feet wide and very bumpy, with a steep drop off of one side. We then got into the town and rode to the 2km sign to wait for the riders to come through (for those watching tv and heard about the tree that fell onto the course, well, we were right below it). This was our first sight of the parade that precedes the racers throwing all kinds of swag into the crowd. They would see our American flag and pass us by, it was pretty amazing. The excitement, speed and raw power generated by the lead group and the peloton was astounding. This was Lances first stage win. Seeing him come by, his focus, his intensity and his explosive power was incredible. Experiencing the tour on the bike and in person definitely gives you a greater appreciation for the riders and the event.

Today was an incredible day at the Tour. The historic time trial up the Alpe d’Huez was nothing short of spectacular. The route started in Bourg d’Oisans and went up the 21 switchbacks of the Alpes. The stage was 15 km (8 miles) from start to finish. A small group of us were on our bikes at 5:30am (Michele and others who did not want to climb the big mountain left at 7:30) and started our ride from Grenoble to Bourg d’Oisans (45k) another 4% sustained climb into the mountains. We arrived and fought our way through the crowds to the start of the climb. There was an estimate 1 million people to be on this route today. In the states they never could have pulled this off as good as the French did. We saw no accidents, no problems and everyone was in a good mood. We hit the start of the mountain at 7:45am and fought through some crowds and people walking to get on the famous 21 virages (switchbacks). The grade of this ascent is an average of 8% with a maximum gradient of 11.5%. The crowds were amazing, people cheering, flags waving and music blaring. We made it to the top in 1hr and 20 min, which was a good time with the crowds and carrying a heavy backpack. At the top, we took pictures of the finish line, awards stand and then a few of us made it partway down the mountain to set up camp to wait for the race to start. We stopped between the 2k and 3k mark. This turned out to be a great spot since this is where Lance Passed Basso. The slowest rider made it up in a little over 45min while Lance did this climb in less than 39min. To see the riders flying up a climb that we suffered on was amazing. For those in the Ventura County area, picture Deer Creek for 8miles and going up and finishing this ride in less than 45 min. Oh did I mention that it was very hot! After the ride we rode the 45k back to Grenoble. This was amazing in the fact that there were hundreds if not thousands of cars and people coming off the mountain. Unlike the States, we rode down the middle of the rode. The cars were amazing and went out of their way to avoid us and smiles were still all around. Doing 30-45 mph zipping through traffic was a new experience.

This was the hardest stage of the tour (for the riders). For us, after yesterdays 120k ride we had heavy legs to start the ride. The objective of today’s ride was to climb the next famous col, Col de la Madeleine. Another small group of us started the ride early and hit the col by 8:30. Due to traffic we got a late start so we were under the gun to finish the climb before we got kicked off the course. Madeleine is a 20K Climb! The average gradient is 8% and maxs out at 10%. So now, we are climbing Mulhulland for 20K ascending for 4,000 ft. I made it up with 10 min to spare before the parade hit us. Michele hooked up with a friend and stopped at the first quarter to view the riders coming through. At the top of the climb (1523 m) we were able to see for miles (Kilometers). To see the blue train commanding the peleton was a sight. Lance and his crew looked calm and in control while the rest of the field looked as if they were going to pop a lung. The real hero of the Tour, Thomas Voekler, has the most amazing style. He is all over the place and looks as if he is going to pop, then kicks back in. Rumor has it that he in deed “popped” 7 times during this stage but was able to come back to the peleton. To see Lance attack Kloden at the end was just short of in human. After the stage we were able to talk to the postal camp. Lance really wanted Floyd to win the stage and after pulling Lance through the mountains he gave it his best but his legs gave out on him and Lance finished the field off.

We loaded in the bus and left Grenoble and stopped outside Lons le Saunier to view the stage before heading to Beaune. This turned out to be a great day. As we pulled into the outskirts of Lons le Saunier the weather turned bad. The rain was hard and the thunder/lightning storms were all around us. At first no one wanted to ride due to the weather but after a few min the weather started to improve. We have noticed this weather all along the tour. If its raining hard, wait 15 min and it will improve. We mounted our bikes after the weather improved and started an easy 45k ride which took us on the race course. We went from the 1k banner up the course for 20+K and then turned around and came back. Today ride was fun, rolling hills (like a small rock store which by now looked like a large drive way), tons of people and beautiful country side. After riding through some great towns we turned around, bought a cow bell for the time trial and headed back. Along the route kids rushed out to give you “high fives” while the adults yelled words of encouragement (I think that’s what they were yelling since we heard several languages). Michele climbed like a champ as we rode up a 4k climb. We stopped when we saw the “devil” in his red suit and took a picture and talked with him for a while. He is now very famous and even has sponsors, go figure. We then rode back to the bus and walked to the finish. Instead of watching the race we headed for the team buses, where Michele picked up some team swag and spoke to different team managers. We then went to visit with my friend, Dr. Jeff Spencer who is the Postals Team Chiropractor. We saw all the injuries that the postal team had sustained (that never made it to the news) and saw the newest techniques that he is using for tissue recovery. AWESOME stuff. What they are doing in sports medicine has changed so much even since last year. The crash that hurt Tyler and Robbie also hurt the Postals but Jeff was able to minimize the damage. After a tour of the team bus and spending time with him we left, but not before Michele got Jan Ulrichs autograph! He signed two autographs before climbing in his bus and Michele was one of them. Michele also got the entire postal teams autograph. She is bold and they could not resist her. I ended up next to George Hincapie during his interview and got to here about the race first hand.

The day of the last time trail! Due to the traffic we decided to ride from Beaune to Besancon. It was suppose to be a rolling 115k ride. We broke into different groups depending on riding speed and took off. I was in a different group than Michele since she wanted to ride with a girl friend she had met and felt comfortable with. I decided to ride with a faster group with some guys I had met. The country side was amazing, with sunflowers, old buildings and churches, rivers and lots of farms. The roads were very small and narrow and the directions were hard to follow. SOOO, we got lost and lost again. My group ended up riding 150k talking over 5+ hours due to the stopping trying to figure out where we were. You know its bad, when our male Australian guides asked two older ladies for directions. Micheles group only got lost once but still logged over 130k. (10k equals 6.2 miles). Again we got rained on but due to the mileage it was a welcome treat. Our legs were done and we were glad the ride was over. At this point Michele had logged 300 miles and myself 450+ for the 6 days. Not bad since we were averaging 70 miles a week before we left J. After stowing our bikes in the bus we made it to the finish line to watch the race on the big Jumbo Tron. To be in a crowd of thousands and when Jan and Lance both came out with high numbers it was so exhilarating to hear the cheers and feel the energy. When Lance came across the finish line it was as if a bomb was released when the cheers erupted. We went back to the hotel and had a great dinner and great wine since we were in wine country.

Lance is crowned the 6th time champion of the Tour de France! We arrived in Paris and after packing our bikes we hopped on a bus to head towards the Champs-Elysées to watch the end of the race. Picture this, millions of people surrounding the 6k loop. Most of these people had camped out for days to get a spot against the barricades. We walked the loop trying to find a spot where we could see something. We climbed light poles, park benches and tried to look through crowds but could not find any spot to see even a helmet. We finally decided to head for the big Jumbo Tran to see if we could see anything. Michele and I were with another couple and the four of us made a friend with a reporters son in law who had a pass to the VIP area. He got us past the two guards and before long we found ourselves sitting behind the VIP tent with all the dignitaries and celebrities. Michele and Lisa took pictures with Will Smith and I got a picture with Bernard Henault. We then went to the OLN tent and spoke with Bob Roll and saw Tyler Hamilton. We talked with Tylers wife and then Tyler. He signed a poster for us and told us about his injury to his back. He stated that the hematoma on his back was the largest he has ever had. It went from his back and came through his stomach. After he left the race he went back to Spain to recover. He spent 4 days there and received constant care and returned to Paris to support his team at the end. He stated he felt good and was ready for Athens. I asked him who they were going to work for. He stated the road course suited George Hincapie so they would work for him and the time trial was hilly and would suit Bobby Julich and himself. After some pictures with Tyler and his wife we watched the race unfold on the giant TV. We then found ourselves talking with Frankie Andreu at the press staging station (the police confined the press and camera personnel to this spot-reason why OLN did not get the initial coverage). When they released the press to the street we went with them. The guards caught Michele, Lisa and her husband Greg but I was able to get through. Before long I found myself standing 10’ from the awards stage on the Champs-Elysées!! I had a camera man turn to me and asked “how did you get in the press pit with no credentials?” I shrugged my shoulders. He then said “you see the stands behind you? That is where the VIPs of the VIPs are sitting. You have a better seat than the president of the Tour, the mayor of France, Lance’s family, Sheryl Crow and Robin Williams and the list went on”. It was GREAT! I held the bikes for the T-Mobile Team while they received their awards for the best team. I stood next to Lance, Basso and Kloden as they waited to go up on the platform. I talked with Robbie McEwen, his wife and child as he waited to go to the podium to get his Green Jersey and sat with Richard Virenque as he was waiting to get his 7th Polka dot jersey. Had Robin William sign my hat while he spoke to reporters on his love of the sports and his admiration of his close friend, Lance. I then hung out with another reporter, who knowing I did not have a camera, took any picture I requested and told me he would e-mail them to me when I got home. After the final parade of riders, the celebration lap, we went back to the postal bus and saw the bikes and talked with the staff. All in all an amazing event!!